The Jaguar racing team won, using disc brake-equipped cars, with much of the credit being given to the brakes' superior performance over rivals equipped with drum brakes. In the 1950s, there was a critical demonstration of superiority at the 1953 24 Hours of Le Mans race, which required braking from high speeds several times per lap. After the war, technological progress began to arrive in 1949, with caliper-type four-wheel disc brakes on the Crosley line, and a Chrysler non-caliper type. Successful application began in airplanes before World War II, and even the German Tiger tank was fitted with discs in 1942. Other designs were not practical or widely available in cars for another 60 years. In 1902, the Lanchester Motor Company designed brakes that looked and operated in a similar way to a modern disc-brake system even though the disc was thin and a cable activated the brake pad. Close will work but the pads will need some bed time.The development of disc-type brakes began in England in the 1890s. A nice surface here is important ** the caliper must sit even and flush ** Blue locktite is your friend.ĭouble check the thing with the rotor snugged on with nuts and maybe a laser square. Get a large sanding block and drag sand the bracket surface that the caliper bolts to. Run the now really long bolt in with a jam nut against the bracket to snug. Now it should be long enough to square the bolt receiver to the axle /hub. Spin the tube until it is square to the bolt. Square the tube to the bolt vertically in the BA vise with a pair of nuts. Take the mounting bolts and weld a long piece of tube to. If you do this, maybe you could knock the bracket closer to the wheel. measure to the snugged disc from the near side of the bracket. shim the rotor, skim the rotor mounting surface. If you know of any old school Jaguar shop, the tech should have some in the top right crap drawer.Ĭut one side of the rotor. So essentially I might overextend the piston 0.015" if I run the pads all the way down.Īs long as the new pads slide in without a hammer. So from the pistons perspective I am running my discs 0.015" below minimum disc diameter when the pad is completely worn out. Grind of a little material on the strut mounting thingy. Grind of a little material on the caliper mounting point. With the way it's mounted now I can't use spacers, it needs to go more towards the wheel (away from the diff).ġ. You can buy metric shims at mcmaster (don't just use flat washers, they're not "flat"). The chance is if you were to get the caliper offset to one side too far, as the pad wears down (especially common in our series) the pistons could be pushed out farther than designed, cocking them in the bores or causing them to loose seal/fly out. Just like you don't want to put a 28mm wide disc in a caliper that accepts a 36mm disc. The disc pathways are spec'd for a specific width and pistons are designed to have set range. A mm or so either way isn't going to be a problem, but being offset 4mm could. Just sayin.Ĭenter the caliper as best you can. They don't "float on fluid", they ride on a seal and are pushed by fluid.
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